mustard in full bloom.
Drama in the skies.
secret break; my back up.
saw a friend - we talked about this winter's amazing surf. I told him a fish story and then he told his. He was out south of the pier. He'd been out for about an hour, he was sitting out a swell, it rolled by. Then he felt a rush of water behind him a whoosh of water and felt the slightest brush against him, he looked to his left to see a large dark grey white shape just aside and under him moving by. He said it was huge. A large grey shape, dark grey on top whitish grey underneath as it sidelined him. He froze, freaked; and started in. Of course, I was vicerally picturing the whole thing; I asked how he felt about surfing after that? He told me he didn't go out for 4 mos.
now I have to get my head around Ed's fish story...